How much cordelette for quad anchor reddit I find a 240 makes a nice tidy quad when using two piece anchors and is long enough for most applications using 3+ pieces. 5m for this). For my shorter cordelettes, I use a 4. A factor 2 fall on the anchor was I think 16kn for nylon, 25 for dyneema and only 8kn for an anchor made using ropes. /5. While I'm generally not a fan of the 7 mm cordelette, you can certainly use one to make a quad anchor. My quad still seems extremely long — should I cut this down even more to 18ft? Would a quad setup that’s this long be dangerous in any way?. Then I realized I could just tie a quad and anchor myself without effecting the direction of the belay is pretty sweet. The cordelette was a guide trick adopted by recreational climbers. Unlike the cordelette, it doesn’t require re-tying at each stance. See full list on climbing. The big benefits of cordalette are that you can chop it up for v-threads, to leave behind on abseils and if you have a sufficient length make a sling longer than a 240cm (need > 5. Edit: ignore me, my bad. Jul 6, 2014 · Leaving aside the question of personal likes and rock type, the width of cord makes a massive difference to the distance one can reach with a cordelette. For a more long term anchor you want locking biners and multiple points for tieing people in, hanging gear/rope, and general versatility. Before the quad, guides used cordelette anchors. com Dec 16, 2019 · OP: Your webbing quad is fine - even though it's overkill for top roping. (Photo: Jay Philbrick Photography) Pro climber and guide Genevive Walker demonstrates how to build a quad anchor. Sure you could top rope off of it no problem but for multi pitch sport I would always use a longer cord to tie a quad. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. If I am carrying a cordelette, this is what I Tying a cordelette for a quad. A quad anchor set up to belay up your partner on a standard two-bolt anchor. Personal preference, I guess. I was fully picturing a 120cm in my head. The results were quite shocking to me. A quad is a different way to rig a multipiece anchor using similar cord/webbing. While it’s a bit expensive, it's only 6 mm but is rated to 20 kN, almost 3 times stronger than normal 6 mm cord. Before guides, we all just anchored with the rope. It's definitely possible but tying a quad with a double length doesn't leave you with much space to work with. Setting up Your Quad Anchor Most of the time I build my anchors using the rope itself. 240cm is plenty of I always undo my cordelette to extend the anchor for top roping. As such, I use the 5. 5. 20ft of 5. Again, easily identifiable masterpoint and easy for the client to disassemble unsupervised. Sometimes I like to extend it over an edge that is about 8-10 ft back from the anchor and if I completely untie my 20’ Cordelette, I can extend about 8’ or so to the ledge rather than only about 4’ if it’s in a tied loop. I recently took an anchors class and I’m setting a walk-up toprope later in the week. It's great for a lot of anchor set ups because of it's stretching abilities. If the anchor moves back and forth and the knot rubs, it could be catastrophic. So buying a cordelette to build a quad is kind of like saying you're getting a boat with snow tires. In a cordelette set up, if there's any extra material going to one of your anchor points, and less going to another, it means that there is more stretch in the system on the further away anchor points, and less in the Sep 21, 2018 · Because most people aren’t willing or able to objectively test these out for themselves to see what their true level of safety (or lack thereof) is, if a nylon cord is used I’d strongly recommend using 7mm for anchor construction, and if the weight and bulk is a significant problem using a Contact sling with a 22kn breaking strength Mar 3, 2025 · You can leave your quad rigged for a long day out. However, I have experienced significant wear on a dyneema equalette with waterknots for an extended TR anchor. In the photo below, the red cord is Sterling Powercord. Although you can create both a 2-piece quad and a 3-piece quad from the same cordelette, I recommend using a shorter cordelette for bolted stances (those which usually have two bolts) and a longer cordelette for trad anchors. Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. For multi pitch trad I was carrying a cordelette for gear anchors and a double length to an over hand on a bite at bolted anchors. My mistake. 9 high tensile stuff for a lot of things, but anchor building isn't one of them. Jun 7, 2024 · Quad with a cordelette. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. DMM did a video comparing nylon and dyneema slings with ropes in the anchor. 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. Ah. Having said that, I like 20-22 ft of 7mm for a cordelette. Rather it's one common way to use that cord - or other materials - to rig a 3 or 4 piece anchor. This happened after one session. Specifically the cordelette. If I am carrying a cordelette, this is what I But if someone falls near the anchor with less rope to soak up the shock, and the anchor is less than bombproof, that 7mm elasticity could theoretically matter. I missed the TR part. As for a TR anchor, I'd worry with the use of non locking carabiners. It's much safer imo. TBH, "If a newer sport climber learns only one anchor I'd much rather it be" one of these: Not for all anchors. 5 m (15 ft) piece of 6 mm Sterling PowerCord. 2 quickdraws are fine as a very short term anchor, like if you are rapping a multipitch or flying up an easy sport climb and swapping leads. spectra will have much less in the knot than 7mm cord. I initially bought a 30ft accessory cord, and sliced this down to 22ft because it was impossible to tie a quad. zvk gtdjv purmaca xufo lxsf zbio swchq nssktyd qdkeboq xfmg

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