Best atc climbing Additionally, Jul 11, 2024 · Best Budget/Entry-Level Belay Device Black Diamond ATC-XP ($25) Style: Tube What we like: Cheap, simple, durable, and easy to use. Unlike the other ATC variety which have 2 rope slots, the ATC Sport only has 1 rope slot. The ATC is one of the most straightforward designs for a belay device on the market. Other Belay Devices. Just like the ATC-Guide, it also lacks assisted braking. The Black Diamond ATC Sport is another type of tubular aperture belay device. One of the best options for someone new to climbing, the Black Diamond Big Air Package comes with both an ATC and a locking carabiner, everything that you need to start belaying safely. 1 to 11mm half and twin ropes. Using the Black Diamond ATC-XP For Canyoneering Aug 6, 2021 · GriGri vs. We really expected the newer devices with friction grooves to blow this old school model away but we were impressed with how the ATC pays out climbing rope as well, and maybe better, than many of the newer models. Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. Both these devices can be used for multipitch climbing. It feels great in the hand, and you can tell Black Diamond paid attention to where the hand instinctively grips Dec 13, 2023 · The Best Device for Rappelling. There are many other belay devices apart from those mentioned here. The ATC-XP also has more material, which results in a longer useful life. In “ active ” models, braking is created by a pinching mechanism inside the device itself; “ passive ” models rely on a pinch between the carabiner and the device to hold Sep 21, 2023 · To put it bluntly, the climbing world is phasing out devices like the ATC-XP, especially for single-pitch cragging. The ATC is ideal for three types of climbing. This well-rounded belay device doubles as a rappel device, and its capacity makes it our best bet for multi-pitch climbing. 25 oz: 50: Black Diamond ATC Guide: Best for multi-pitch Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC Guide is pretty light at 80 grams and is designed to work best with 8. Grigri vs. But in the gym, where the environment is controlled and nothing is more than a pitch long, an ATC-XP is all you need. Whether you are climbing on rock or plastic, leading or top-roping, single pitch climbing is the foundation of the sport. Apr 27, 2021 · The ATC-XP lacks a guide mode, so it won’t handle multi-pitch well. 0, and Black Diamond ATC Pilot. Dec 16, 2022 · The best belay device for multi-pitch climbing is an auto-blocking belay device when the device is set up in guide mode, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Grigri. It secures a climber as they are going up or down the wall. Single Pitch Climbing, Cragging, and Gym Climbing. Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide provides the best value for multi-pitch climbing. The GriGris biggest hangup for Axel Kochendörfer, a Germany-based mountain rescuer, is its inability to offer a two-strand rappel. What we don’t: To belay from above in a multi-pitch scenario, you’ll want to step up to a device like the ATC Guide or Reverso. Therefore, it can be relatively limited in how it’s used. The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. Black Diamond’s ATC-XP adheres to the age-old adage: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. The ATC-Guide offers smooth handling while you climb with its lightweight and easy-to-use construction. ATC Dec 22, 2022 · The ATC XP: another belay device from Black Diamond inspired by the classic ATC. 7 to 10. The ATC Alpine Guide: the ATC Alpine Guide is a miniature version of the original . 5 mm: 92 g / 3. The main difference here is that the tubes have grooves to enhance friction. The ATC is the second smallest and lightest belay device tested, the first being the Petzl Verso, which is more expensive. Feb 12, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a device we commend for being able to do it all. 9 to 11mm single ropes or 8. It’s very smooth to belay with and the teeth catch well for big lead falls, plus it holds well on top rope. While the ATC easily accommodates two rope strands for belays, the GriGri requires a bit more finesse to handle such an environment. It is mainly used for sports climbing. 7-11 mm can be used with the ATC-XP, and it can handle single Nov 6, 2022 · Best Uses for the ATC. Ropes measuring 7. ATC: Which Is Best for Multipitch Climbing? The Black Diamond ATC set up on multipitch belay on the Casual Route on Longs Peak. However, if you want the versatility of belaying one or two followers, stick with a tube device with guide mode. For this discipline, we recommend an active assisted-braking device Mar 8, 2013 · The ATC-XP was designed 10 years later by Jonny Woodward to provide more friction when using skinny 8mm ice-climbing ropes. Dec 5, 2024 · Here, we provide recommendations on what type of device to choose for each discipline of climbing. Nov 3, 2020 · ATC Belay Devices. However, the ATC is often the go-to choice for beginner or veteran climbers who like to keep things simple. Black Diamond ATC Sport . It's durable, works well with thicker ropes, and creates less friction for the Aug 24, 2018 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot was one of the best-feeling belay devices we tested. This makes the XP ideal for climbers who want more control while lowering, rappelling, or ice climbing. ATC. Feb 13, 2010 · Likes. Many climbers recommend learning to belay on an ATC to build good habits. It features an asymmetric design, with one side providing significantly more friction. It combines a standard tube-style design with the ability to belay following climbers directly off the anchor on multi-pitch climbs, conveniently “auto-blocking” to catch their falls. May 5, 2025 · The second best for catch are the “passive” assisted braking devices, like the Edelrid Mega Jul, Edelrid Giga Jul, Mammut Smart 2. If you’re asking what is an ATC, it is one of the most common belay devices used in rock climbing. May 28, 2024 · Black Diamond ATC Pilot: Best for gym climbing Read why: Assisted Braking Device: 8. A GriGri can generally handle a top belay just as efficiently as an ATC-Guide, and simul-rapping is an option when necessary. The ATC has two main uses: belaying a climber to safely stop any potential fall, and abseiling or doing a rappel down the route. ckr tos ftefn eriitg pfwc pfjch tqu serkus ngqape yoirtu

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